Christmas, 2009

 We found ourselves in Arras-en-Lavedan, deep in a valley of the Pyrenees,  wondering how to celebrate Christmas Eve. Our hope had been to celebrate Christmas with snow but it is not to be, here it is raining and foggy. We decided to attend the local church for the Messe des Bergers (the shepherds' mass) at 9:30 PM which we had read about on a flyer. We had no idea what it was but we were hoping for some Christmas music. The French custom is to be with family on Christmas Eve so we knew that things would be quiet. What we didn't know is how very quiet they would be. Surely, we thought, something would be open in the town at the bottom of the hill. After all, it is bigger than our village, some restaurants will be open  . . . we thought . . .  mistakenly! After nearly an hour of investigation only to find everything closed, I asked a shopkeeper who was himself just closing up. "I think the hotel is open. Wait a minute, I'll call them." Sure enough, he told them to look out for us and off we went. Their meal was 40 euros, consisted of 6 courses and would take hours. We decided to take one more drive down the old Lourdes road--perhaps Our Lady would hear of our plight? Luck? Our Lady? We discovered a Total gas station, just closing up. It was filled with food, typical of a Canadian gas station (but for the wine and whiskey!): ready made sandwiches (2), chips (1 bag), and for French flavour, some Madeleines. We arrived at the church to see a crowd huddled under the stone porch so we wolfed down the sandwiches and joined them. Suddenly applause, as a young woman came panting up with the key to the church!! We found seats and sat back to admire the interior.

It was splendid.  Built in the 12th century, of Romanesque origin, it has the rounded arches of that period but with an elaborate Baroque altar. The walls and the ceiling are all painted with various patterns to look like wallpaper--a common technique of that period. We sat back as more and more people filled the seats. Soon it was standing room only: lots of families but very few young children. As always in a French crowd, much handshaking and kissing. At the crack of 9:30, an elderly priest moved down the aisle to the back of the church. Soon began the sound of male voices, singing in harmony. They were singing beautifully but in what language? We found the order of service and could see that the words were not French although there was some resemblance. The singers, all men, dressed in black capes and berets followed the priest back up the aisle. One of them was leading a white sheep who had been neatly sheered  and decorated with red ribbons. Singing, they made their way to the front of the church where their leader took the mike. He explained that they were mostly working shepherds and that the Messe des Bergers would be sung in the regional patois. I don't think I can convey how enormously moving it was to be present for this service. To sit in this historic church surrounded by people from the area, to listen to singing in an ancient language, aware of the symbolism of the shepherds whose sheep was blessed as part of the Messe, was overwhelming. We felt privileged to be there and to be able to share the occasion with them. We were clearly strangers in their midst, they looked at us a bit shyly and smiled so that the warmth of these families enveloped us too.

  If you search carefully, you can see David looking up at the crowd in the balcony!

 

 Christmas morning dawned bright and sunny. How amazing that Santa Claus had found us in Arras and left gifts under our "tree"!                                                                         

 We set off after breakfast for a hike to the pass above the village. Again, we found ancient history: in the castle, already important enough to have been taken by the Black Prince in the 100 Years War (1337-1453); in the old stone pasture walls, an engineering feat, David said, made of very large stones and with only manpower. Also in the narrow passages built to guide the sheep up to the high mountains in the summer.  It was steep and we became hotter and hotter!  In fact, it was about 12 degrees C.                                                                       

And then, it was off to the small local restaurant for Christmas dinner. No Total sandwiches today!

Here is the menu: Kir Royale et Amuse-gueules (consisting of  Saumon Fumé, Feuilleté de fruits de mer and of course, Foie gras et toasts). Then Caille farcie avec petits légumes followed by a Salade verte, all accompanied by a Pichet de vin rosé. And to top it all off Bûche de Noël.

The icing on the Bûche was the ability to connect with family via Skype and telephone. Amazing to be able to see our granddaughters, excitedly showing us their new dolls--in real time! This Christmas was, as many of our experiences have been, an adventure full of laughter and emotion. Certainly it is one that will remain a vivid memory in our hearts for years to come.
                  
For those of you who would like to sample the singing of these shepherds, go to:
http://www.starzik.com/mp3/artistes/Eths_d_Azu-452898.html
Click on the "Noel en Val d'Azun" album. Then if you click on the arrow to the far right of each title, you can hear a small sample of each of the songs we heard. Amazon.fr carries the album. At the moment, it is sold out!

The area once belonged to the Duke of Bigorre whose dukedom was created in the ninth century. What the locals call "patois" is actually a language with its roots in Gascon, French, Latin and Spanish called Bigourdan. 
"Sounat campanettas, tringlat carillous, Sounat las aubtas, cantat anjelous."

I have read that when the Virgin appeared to Bernadette at Lourdes, she spoke to her in Bigourdan, Bernadette's own language, causing the authourities to scoff! Why would the Virgin speak in this lowly patois? However, 150 years later Bigourdan still seems to be alive and well in the Valle d'Azun. The tourist signs are written in French and in Bigourdan.