We decided we needed a treat, a bit of exploration and repose before the busy month of May when we welcome our family. Do we explore some of the historic sites of the region? Poitou Charente was on one of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. It has a large number of fine Romanesque churches and abbeys built to welcome and house the pilgrims. As well, there are Roman ruins, beautiful chateaux, the historic towns of Nantes and Angers. But there is also the Marais Poitevin and that's where we decided to go.
Once a water-logged swamp of 100,000 hectares (247,105 acres), by the 13th century five monasteries in the region had turned much of the land into pastures by building dykes and drainage canals. Little by little the area became one of agricultural importance. The fields grew grains, pastured cows and also provided lumber. The canals were full of fish. The One Hundred Years war put a stop to the region's development while England and France decided who would rule this part of France. Howver, by the 16th century the Marais is noted in correspondence of Francois I and Henri IV. Experts from the Netherlands were imported to help with further drainage and even more land was claimed. Small villages, accessible only by water until the beginning of the 20th century, were established along the canals. Due to their isolation and the character of the inhabitants, they became known for their wild ways and independent nature.
The canal system is well marked with signposts at each intersection so we were able to follow the map and have a good two hour circuit.
The water levels are governed by a number of small dams well designed for 'portages'. While we didn't need to use them, we were happy to see that had we wanted to we wouldn't have had to carry the very heavy Fibreglass 'canoë canadien' over the landscape!
As we came around a corner, suddenly we saw a very large swan. The closer we came, the bigger it became until I began to think it was some sort of joke. However, she was engaging in a sort of protective behaviour by holding her wings high and rounded in a heart shape. She was protecting her nest.We tried to keep clear of her, difficult in a narrow canal, and she hissed and chased us as we paddled on. It was a magical sight, an experience we won't have in Algonquin Park!
That evening we were amazed to find a wonderful gourmet restaurant in this tiny village. Ma Gourmandise, run by a young couple and staffed by two young men in suits and ties was decorated in a sophisticated style with interesting food and presentations.The four course menu at €25 was an excellent choice: the food was delicious, beautifully served and we staggered home to our comfortable room for a good night's sleep.
The following day we decided to hike along the edges of the canals. We met only one other couple during the three hours we were walking.
They too were entranced by the landscape, the bird calls (we heard a cuckoo!) and the feeling of being in another space and time. "C'est vraiment comme autrefois ici." and we agreed. It was like being in the past, a beautiful two days of relaxation.
Once a water-logged swamp of 100,000 hectares (247,105 acres), by the 13th century five monasteries in the region had turned much of the land into pastures by building dykes and drainage canals. Little by little the area became one of agricultural importance. The fields grew grains, pastured cows and also provided lumber. The canals were full of fish. The One Hundred Years war put a stop to the region's development while England and France decided who would rule this part of France. Howver, by the 16th century the Marais is noted in correspondence of Francois I and Henri IV. Experts from the Netherlands were imported to help with further drainage and even more land was claimed. Small villages, accessible only by water until the beginning of the 20th century, were established along the canals. Due to their isolation and the character of the inhabitants, they became known for their wild ways and independent nature.
Now there are roads, agriculture has diminished and the Marais Poitevin has become a major tourist attraction. The small villages thrive on the businesses of hotels, B and Bs, restaurants and all sorts of crafts. Deciding where to go was somewhat difficult as we thought we would try to get there without renting a car. The extensive French train service goes to towns around the Marais. Then the challenge was to find a way into the area. The bus schedules seemed another experience from Wonderland. We could go to a village on Wednesday but there were no buses out until Saturday. Or, we could get to the nearest point by train but only if we were willing to wait four hours for the bus. Having discovered a nice B and B, Chambres d'Hôtes du Canal in Arçais (with a 'real' canoe and a canal at the bottom of the garden), I called to see how it might be possible to get there. "Mais, c'est facile" said Mme. Plat and then described a route that we hadn't discovered. It involved taking a small commuter train and then finding a taxi which she assured us would not be expensive. She didn't know how much but not expensive! So we were off one morning and what did we discover at the station? A Canadian train!! A lovely and very comfortable Bombardier. After a quick ride, we were at our destination, 
Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon where we found a boarded up station. It was unnerving to say the least and there certainly weren't any taxis lurking about. We set off down the street, lined with lovely houses and after 10 minutes came to the Mairie (City Hall). Unable to make the phone card work in the call box to call a taxi, we threw ourselves on the good will of two women who were just locking up their office for lunch. The taxi arrived quickly and we set out at breakneck speed across the rich agricultural plain that borders the wetlands of the Marais. The taxi driver was full of stories as he also answered his phone, used his GPS and drove at least 100 km/hr! We were at the B and B in no time.
Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon where we found a boarded up station. It was unnerving to say the least and there certainly weren't any taxis lurking about. We set off down the street, lined with lovely houses and after 10 minutes came to the Mairie (City Hall). Unable to make the phone card work in the call box to call a taxi, we threw ourselves on the good will of two women who were just locking up their office for lunch. The taxi arrived quickly and we set out at breakneck speed across the rich agricultural plain that borders the wetlands of the Marais. The taxi driver was full of stories as he also answered his phone, used his GPS and drove at least 100 km/hr! We were at the B and B in no time.
Arçais is a village of 654 inhabitants. Like all villages in France, it has a city council consisting of the mayor and 15 (!!) councillors. It was once a thriving little place with a chateau and a port for the river boats. Once the only form of transport for humans and beasts, they are now mostly used for taking tourists along the canals. It was indeed beautiful and peaceful and our B and B had a long garden stretching down to the canal. Monsieur proudly showed us the 'Canadian' canoe and soon we were out on the canal. It was dream-like, very peaceful. The scent of blossoms wafted through the air, the green was delicate, the bird calls melodic.
The canal system is well marked with signposts at each intersection so we were able to follow the map and have a good two hour circuit. 
As we came around a corner, suddenly we saw a very large swan. The closer we came, the bigger it became until I began to think it was some sort of joke. However, she was engaging in a sort of protective behaviour by holding her wings high and rounded in a heart shape. She was protecting her nest.We tried to keep clear of her, difficult in a narrow canal, and she hissed and chased us as we paddled on. It was a magical sight, an experience we won't have in Algonquin Park!
The following day we decided to hike along the edges of the canals. We met only one other couple during the three hours we were walking.
They too were entranced by the landscape, the bird calls (we heard a cuckoo!) and the feeling of being in another space and time. "C'est vraiment comme autrefois ici." and we agreed. It was like being in the past, a beautiful two days of relaxation.
