Friendship in a Foreign Land

Just over a year ago, we decided on La Rochelle and began to look for housing. As we trolled through the available apartments, I was struck by the lack of comfortable seating in most living rooms. Until I discovered a charming house with two Ikea Poang chairs. I have always loved the design and comfort of these chairs so this house rose to the top of our list. We emailed the owners who replied promptly letting us know that the house was unavailable as they were returning to live in it themselves. The email ended by saying: "If there is anything we can do to help you, please let us know." There was something about the tone of the email that made us believe that this was not a throw-away line but that it came from people who really meant it. We took them up on it and asked for advice. And so began a gift of friendship that we will treasure long past our time in La Rochelle. The presence of Géry and Marie Marchant in our lives has helped to make this experience richer, more fun and more interesting than it ever would have been without them.
Over the months before we left we emailed over 200 times and talked on Skype. We all wondered about each other and whether when we finally met, we would have much in common. Now it feels as though we have known each other for years. We have hung out together, helped each other, had coffee and walks together. They have shown us where to shop, interesting places in the city, encouraged us in our French. They have introduced us to many people and given us experiences we would never have had without them.

So who are these people who have made such a difference in our lives? Marie is chic, animated and very funny. She listens with great attention and interest,one of the reasons why she has been an effective counsellor in a variety of settings. She is energetic, extroverted and a risk-taker.
Géry is tall and lanky with a shock of blond curly hair that makes him look much younger than his 60 years. His bright blue eyes reflect what he is thinking. He is quieter and outwardly more serious than Marie, slower to express himself. However, he is quick to laugh and when he speaks it is worth listening to. Married in their forties, they are each other's best friend.

They come from different parts of France,  but share childhoods in large families. They readily give credit to their families for some of the characteristics that drive them. Marie's eldest brother was born with severe disabilities. Everyone in the family was needed to care for him as both parents worked. While sometimes difficult, she thinks this has made her sensitive to the needs of others and drove her to choose professions (teacher and psychologist) where she could put this skill to use. Géry grew up on a farm in the north of France. He says his work ethic comes from his father's influence as does his interest in learning new things. He is a student pilot and sailor. Both are musicians. Marie is an accomplished pianist, Géry, a new student of the saxophone.

Most of all, they are honest and true people. They are steadfast and loyal. We know that if ever we needed help in a hurry, they would arrive at our door no matter the time of day. They are true believers in "paying it forward". And that is what they are about to do. They leave for Africa on April 6 for four years. Géry will be working for an NGO in Bénin, a small country in West Africa, formerly the French colony Dahomey. In true Marchant fashion, they are excited to be going on a new adventure, passionate about the country that is to be their new home and committed to the difference they hope to make in the lives of the Béninois.

We will miss them during the months that remain for us in La Rochelle. But we are sure that we will meet again: in Africa, in Canada or once more in France. Meanwhile, our friendship will continue as it began via email and Skype.

Chers Marie et Géry, bon courage! Vous serez toujours dans nos pensées et nos cœurs.

The Joys of Exercise

There is a funny chapter in Adam Gopnik's book Paris to the Moon (a wonderful read) about his difficulties in finding a gym in Paris; French Women Don't Get Fat (Mireille Guiliano) proposes that French women are reluctant to do any kind of exercise other than walking. We are often told that La Rochelle is different from other French cities so perhaps the women here are different too. The fact is we see many women jogging and there are lots of gyms advertising to women. Last November, David discovered an ad, offering 'promotions' for a new gym for women only and I went off to investigate. I was greeted by two enthusiastic and good-looking men, Laurent and Ludovic who sold me on Women Fitness, yes, another example of Franglais! Only a ten minute walk away, I can  get there, do my séance and be home in just over an hour, a little more if I have a shower or dawdle on the way home. The concept of Women Fitness is similar to Curves.  The idea is to move around a circuit of resistance machines, spending two minutes at each one. They exercise major muscle groups as well as giving you a cardio workout in 30 minutes. Women Fitness is the same. The differences? The audio "director" who calls out 'changement de poste' when the two minutes are up and this massage machine.

Every woman in the gym uses this. It is supposed to rub the fat away! I'm not sure about that but it feels good after a workout and it can't hurt! The other difference is the hours: Monday to Friday 9:00 to 14:00 and 15:30-20:00; closed on the weekends. Note the closing for lunch every day. The timing is different from the rest of the city, allowing women to come during their lunch hours but still giving Ludovic time for his. So far, he says, they have not had much demand for weekend opening.

Like most gyms in Toronto, the Women Fitness members are a diverse group: young and old, working and retired, single and in relationships. They also come in many different shapes and sizes. Some are there to lose weight, others to do what they call 'le sport'. This expression may support Mireille Guiliano if going to this type of gym qualifies as sport! They are a friendly group and I have had some interesting chats as we exercise together. Laurent has now returned to Blois where he runs the club there and Ludovic, Ludo for short, is now the 'responsable' for this branch.  He is a charming and thoughtful young man. He knows everyone's name and makes it his business to greet us as we arrive. He supervises the gym, gives consultations and encourages us all as we sweat away on the machines: "Allez, allez!", he calls out, clapping his hands in time to the music. The club was flooded during the big storm and was closed for a week. The day it reopened was International Women's Day and Ludo had roses, each one wrapped and tied with a ribbon, for everyone who came that day. Altogether, I am enjoying this French gym experience.

The only successful gym experiences in my life have been ones in which the gym was very close to home or work, where getting there was not an effort. Going to Women Fitness, even in the cold or rain, is a delight. I will so miss this walk when we leave La Rochelle. I set out from home and head down the street towards the market, through the Arsenal that used to house the army and now houses some of the city government as well as a parking lot for the public and for the rental bicycles and electric cars owned by the city.

I cross the canal and head around the lake. On the other side of the lake, you can see part of the old city wall.

On my way back, I often go up the Rue St. Nicholas. This area dates from the 12^th century. It was, for a long time, the disreputable haunt of sailors. Our friend, Valérie was not allowed near there as a young girl! It is now full of boutiques, restaurants and bars. It is a narrow cobbled street and I like using it for the view of the city that suddenly appears at its end.

I know I will go back to exercising with Norma at the East York Community Centre and that I will enjoy it. But I will miss Ludo and the Women Fitness women. And I will crave the beauty of this walk through La Rochelle.